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品茗的藝術美 The Aesthetics of Tea Drinking

Posted by CRM . on

文:許玉蓮 By Hooi Yoke Lien

你靜靜打開茶罐把茶葉撥入壺中。靜靜將熱水送入茶葉裏。靜靜把泡好的茶倒出來。我靜靜握著茶杯湊近鼻翼。靜靜吸一口茶含著。就這樣含著久久。一次又一次的靜靜地,茶香由遠而近,由清轉濃鑽入我的身體。

初打開茶罐時茶香清淡得像霧,但覺有種仙氣一下子籠罩著眼前事物,惹得我一直伸長脖子要尋覓她。熱水觸及茶葉立刻一絲雅得不能再雅的香氣氤氲而生,美得叫我們誰也不敢動大氣。把茶倒進杯子時,茶香迅速花開兩支,香花一朵燦爛開在空氣,深深吸進兩口就沒了,另一朵輕盈輕盈沈澱杯底,將茶杯移至鼻端前閉上雙眼消受她,香氣像一絲細細電流在體內流轉,流到哪裏細胞就一個一個開到哪裏。茶進入口腔含著,香氣就集中往上颚靠攏並遊入鼻腔,我們都給她迷住。

我們靜靜把茶含著,先不忙著咀嚼、吞咽,我們用舌尖翻來覆去咀嚼第一泡茶,從她一陣一陣散發出的可人滋味如芽香味、菜香味、花香味、果香味或糖香味開始了解她的身世背景,她叫什麽名字來自何地,葉子采摘時有多嫩。

第二泡茶慢慢深入,茶水與唾液交融一體完全沒有一點縫隙,滋味打擊著口腔每一部位。我們于是知道茶葉的發酵、揉捻、焙火以及各種曾經發生過在她身上的歷練,她楚楚的美姿如:發酵工序很好的果韻味,我們要保存,她受傷的嬌柔如:雨天積水的茶帶澀青味,我們要學會欣賞。

第三泡茶,茶水滲透進體內深處,又一下子擴散輻射全身,傳至腳底泛起一陣暖意,我們更進一步了解茶葉性質,茶樹品種,産茶區的生態等。

直至最後一泡茶,茶味自肉身穿透血液,輸送至我們的精神、靈魂,香味與血肉、心靈緊緊膠溶,從此以後我們生命不一樣。


Quietly, you open the tea caddy, put some tealeaves into the teapot, add hot water, and then pour the brewed tea into the teacups. Quietly, I lift the cup and place it under my nose, take in the aroma and hold it there. The whiff of the tea aroma comes in waves from a distance before entering my body.

The fragrance released when the tea caddy is opened tends to be subtle; it veils the things around with an intriguing hint of the celestial, teasing our senses but eluding clear identification. As the hot water gets in touch with the tealeaves, a captivating aroma arises. The aroma blossoms as tea is poured into the teacups, creating a front note that is pronounced but transient, and a more lasting note that gently settles to the bottom of the cup. With eyes closed and the cups held at the tip of our nose, we can feel the intense aroma transformed into a current that travels through our body, opening every cell as with the Midas’ touch. As each sip stays in our mouth, the aroma ascends towards the nasal cavity, literally taking our breath away.

Make no haste. Hold the tea in the mouth for a while before swallowing. Does it impart fragrance of the leaf shoot? Is it infused with vegetal, floral, fruity or caramel aroma? Let our tongue reveal the origin and the name of the beautiful brew, and assess the tenderness of the fresh leaves when they were plucked.

The second brew leads to a deeper communion. The flavour of the wonderful brew fills our mouth. This total contact enables us to understand the processing these tealeaves have undergone, such as enzymatic oxidizing, rolling and roasting. This calls for an admiration the way we would a beautiful lady with considerable life experience– we shall take great care to preserve the ripe fruity aroma resulting from skilful oxidation, and learn to appreciate the hint of astringent greenness caused by water retention on rainy days.

The third brew penetrates deeper and reaches out to every part of our body, generating warmth from under our sole. We get to know more about the properties of the tealeaves, the species of the tea trees, and the ecology of the tea plantation.

By the time of the last brew, the tea would have penetrated our body, infused our blood, and reached out to our heart and soul. It is this communion of the body and the beverage, and the soul and the aroma that will change our life forever.
Tea Brewing Method Tea Tips 泡法

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