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泡茶師進場與退場的必要 The Importance for a Tea Brewing Master to make an Entrance and an Exit

Posted by CRM . on

文 By: 許玉蓮 Hooi Yoke Lien
Photographed by Seanteruo


泡茶師爲客人掌席泡茶呈獻茶湯作品的品茗會,泡茶師要有進場與退場的必要。茶會開始前把茶席設置完畢,讓泡茶師等在席上至一位一位客人入座了才開始泡茶不是一個好辦法,那是接待負責帶位、公關負責寒暄的工作。泡茶師在泡茶前將茶席整裝完畢就躲起來,直至被主持人請出,泡茶師一入席即開始泡茶,這樣子有點生硬,與物與人的感情還沒投入似的。

泡茶師的進場,不是說把進場儀式包裝得有聲有色、音樂響起伴奏那樣子就夠了,也不是拿著一盤漂亮的花、提著一盞古董燈風姿綽約走入茶席就完了,這些動作與茶無關,對品茶一點幫助都沒有。

泡茶師要怎麽進場呢?品茗環境打掃、布置好後,擺上泡茶桌、椅子、儲存櫃子、屏風等(如有),泡茶桌如有桌巾可預先鋪上,設置至此可告一段落,就等來賓入座。時間到了,泡茶師要拿著自己的茶具(之前已知道要用什麽茶具)進場,可作以下安排:主茶器如壺、茶海、杯子收入一托盤或籃子,另一盤置輔茶器如茶匙、杯托、茶巾等,最後一套是煮水器,如發覺煮水器有點笨重或移動不便,可省略進場,預先擺入泡茶席。

茶器收納要有一定上下或裏外次序,根據要擺放的前後時間決定它的位置,如壺墊要放在最外面,接著才是茶壺以此類推,這樣從籃子把茶器取出時就不會亂,第一從最外面取出壺墊,放在茶席,第二取出茶壺,置放壺墊上,壺若有布袋包裹,小心打開取出後,把布袋折疊整齊收回籃子裏。主茶器布置完了,收下籃子,也將輔茶器一件一件取出置放茶席上,應擺在最遠位置的茶具要先從托盤中取出,依序從遠至近,放好了收下托盤,最後備水煮水,這樣一步一步進入泡茶狀況,牽動著品茗者的心慢慢專注在茶道上,那才叫美呢。

退場要怎麽做?品茗到最後,清水也喝了,茶渣也看了聞了,將器具做初步清理,取出裝主茶器的籃子,依序把壺、茶海、茶杯等一一收進去,接著將輔茶器也一一收進托盤,站起來把剛才自己帶出來的茶器收進去(後台),先捧起輔茶器之托盤離席,過了一會,再出來將主茶器的籃子帶走(去後台),最後再一次出茶席來,與大家鞠躬,告知大家結束了。有這樣子一絲不苟的前後呼應,有這樣子對茶對人的依依不舍,那才叫好呢。



For a tea gathering where a tea brewing master brews and serves tea enthusiasts with his/her works of tea infusion, it is essential for the person to make an entrance and an exit. It is not a good idea to have the tea brewing master waiting at the table for the guests to be seated, after the table has been laid and before the brewing begins. Greeting the guests and exchanging pleasantries would be the task of the ushers and public relations personnel. Equally inadvisable is for the tea brewing master to wait at the back stage after setting the table, until the master of ceremonies invites him/her to come forward and begin brewing. Without any warming up, this arraignment lacks emotional connection and may appear rather rigid.

This does not mean that a well-packaged entrance routine with strong visual appeal and background music is the way to go. Nor is this about entering elegantly with a pot of beautiful flowers, an antique lamp or any other props -- these are mere gestures that have nothing to do with tea, and surely do not contribute to the experience of tea appreciation.

How should a tea brewing master make an entrance? This begins with preparation including tidying and setting up the venue for tea appreciation. Put in the table, chairs, storage cupboards, screens and the like. Lay the table cloth, if using, on the table. Wait for the guests to be seated. When it is time for brewing, the tea brewing master will make an entrance with the tea ware (which he/she knows well before hand). This can be arranged in the following way: primary utensils such as teapot, tea pitcher and teacups to be brought in on a carrying tray or in a basket; secondary utensils such as teaspoons, saucers and tea towel on another tray; followed by the kettle. If the kettle is too bulky, or it is inconvenient to move it around, omit it from the entrance ritual and place it on the table when setting up the venue instead.

The way different items of tea ware are kept and organised follows a certain order, depending on their respective places on the tea presentation setting -- from the upper to the lower edge, or the innermost to the outermost position -- and the order in which these items are retrieved and laid on the table. For example, the teapot coaster would have to be placed on the outermost position of the basket, followed by the teapot and so on. This way, the items can be retrieved systematically. Take out the teapot coaster first and place it on the table, then the teapot on the coaster. Carefully remove the teapot from the pouch, if any, and fold the pouch neatly before keeping it in the basket. Next, take out the tray with the secondary utensils. Lay the items on the table one by one, from the edge inward. Put away the carrying tray once done. Finally, boil the water. This seamless flow of action leads to tea brewing and helps anchor the attention of tea enthusiasts, contributing to the aesthetics of tea appreciation.

How should he/she make an exit then? The tea brewing and drinking session has come to an end. Water has been taken, and the appearance and aroma of brewed leaves appreciated. It is time to briefly clean the utensils and pack. Take out the basket for the primary items, and put the teapot, tea pitcher and teacups back one by one in the correct order. Then, return the secondary utensils to the tray. Rise and bring one’s utensils to back stage, beginning with the tray of secondary utensils, and then return the basket of primary utensils. Finally, make one more appearance by bowing to the guests at the tea presentation setting to signal the end of the entire tea appreciation. This meticulous arrangement with a coordinated beginning and ending leaves a lingering impression that stays in the mind of tea enthusiasts, leaving them longing for more of such experience.

Tea Brewing Method Tea Tips 泡法

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