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茶葉與水的纏綿與交融 A Communion between Tealeaves and Water

Posted by CRM . on

文 By: 許玉蓮 Hooi Yoke Lien


茶葉的第一回生命:鮮葉,剛採下時充滿豐沛水分,如果沒有得到愛護與照顧,讓葉子漫無目的一直晾着,她會不知不覺把水分消耗殆盡,最後只能變成失去生命的枯葉。

制茶,便是有計劃性地延續葉子生命,並保留當時她最巔峰的色香味,人們要做的是必須細心將她的水分慢慢拿掉。如何讓葉子在完美無瑕的情況下消失水分穩住葉子的最佳狀態是制茶者之成為制茶者的使命,讓葉子部分水分在制茶過程中消失其實是茶葉要成為茶葉的第一場聖戰,她毫無保留將自己交給制茶者,冷熱自知,有時她凱旋獲得第二生命有時她不。

鮮葉的第二個生命:茶葉,什麼時候會復活呢,當人們泡茶時她就復活,這是茶葉之所以成為茶葉的終極聖戰,茶葉一定得被泡,泡了一定得被喝,這樣茶葉才能活在人們的身體裡靈魂底深處,這樣她才知道人們是如何的深愛着她,沒有被沖泡和喝過的茶葉是活不出生命的。

泡茶,是讓水進入茶體,互相滋養與浸潤,茶汁就會從茶體湧出並滲透水中與之交融,這時水不再是水,茶葉不再是茶葉,而脫胎換骨成新生命:茶湯。

有說何必麻煩,泡茶時只要能把茶味迫出來即可,比如壺小、茶多、水熱都是能把茶味迫出來的手段。不,茶味是迫不出來的,壺小、茶多、水熱這樣倉促浮躁的情況,茶葉會泡不開,到時有的只是茶葉表層之味,此味是不足夠強至滲透進水與水混為一體的,茶葉只會白白犧牲。

茶湯是水與茶葉密密實實地緊緊擁抱—-茶體要酥軟酥軟的攤開接受水的衝擊,水要激情的流進、佔據茶體,足夠深切地震盪入茶心,茶葉才能釋出芬芳的精華讓人們享用她,茶湯是水與茶葉互相獻祭獻出自身寶貴生命而繁衍出的另一個生命體。


The first life of tealeaves: Moist leaves freshly plucked will lose its water content over time if no due care is given; they will eventually become withered dried leaves without any trace of life.

Tea processing not only helps extend the life of the tealeaves systematically, but also ensures the leaves retain the best of their colour, aroma and flavour. The tea masters will have to let the moisture content reduces slowly. Their mission is to let the leaves stay at the peak condition while facilitating dissipation of water vapour in a smooth and seamless manner. For fresh leaves from the tea trees to become tealeaves, dissipation of water vapour is the first ‘holy war’ in the entire process. The fate of these leaves is entirely in the hands of the tea masters – some tealeaves will make it to the hall of fame and others not.

The second life of tealeaves: When do these tealeaves come to life again? They ‘rise’ again when they are being turned into tea infusion – the ultimate ‘holy war’ where leaves turn into tea. Tealeaves are to be steeped and the tea infusion taken. This way, the leaves will reach our heart and soul, and ‘feel’ the passion we have bestowed upon this much loved beverage. As such, tealeaves that have not been brewed and consumed are deprived of life.

When water is added to the tea leaves and left to infuse, the water fills each and every molecule of the tealeaves, while leaching out their ‘juice’ or flavours. The union of water and tealeaves have given us tea infusion.

Some want it fast and opt for small pots, large amount of tealeaves or high water temperature to ‘force’ the flavour out. As a matter of fact, tea flavour cannot be ‘forced’ out; small pots, large amount of tealeaves and high water temperature are shortcuts which yield flavour that is nothing more than ‘skin-deep’ -- the tealeaves would not be able to open up and fully release their substance. The flavour produced this way is not strong enough for the water, and the life of these tealeaves is doomed.

Tea infusion is a communion between water and the tealeaves. Only when the water penetrate the deepermost of each leaf, which releases its full flavour in the most unreserved manner, will we be able to enjoy the best of colour, aroma and flavour these tealeaves have to offer. The transformation is complete, and the water and tealeaves have become one. It is a different life all together.

Tea Brewing Method Tea Tips 泡法

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