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美哉!武夷山 Mount Wu Yi, A Sight to Behold!

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武夷山風景美如畫


突兀壯觀九十九岩

文 By: 曾智勇

好一片丹霞地貌奇秀無此,美得令人驚嘆!

奇形怪狀七十二洞穴,突兀壯觀九十九岩,錯落有致,一百零八處景點。這就是武夷山。

九曲溪一碧如染,全長 二十公里,洗滌心靈,舒展心懷一覽武夷山,這是最愉快又輕鬆的水程。從九曲至一曲,一時轉舟,詩情畫意,舟行溪間,群山環抱,舟山碧水,盡收眼前。溪水蜿蜒,觀山知名,心裡就浮現其形象如上下水龜石,雙乳峰、曬布岩、玉女、大王峰等,趣怪可愛遐想。

美麗的山,都有很多的傳說。感人的故事中《大王峰與玉女》一個三千八百多年高深莫測,尤數謎底般的船棺。摩崖石刻,書法藝術的神韻是文化中的瑰寶。一路走來,幾小時就這樣過去。走天游峰、其山不高,從茶洞經過至山腳下,有一仙潭拿起潭水洗臉清涼愜意,仙人的洗澡水果然非同凡響。沿路向上走,山不高也不感氣喘,每轉個彎外就有不同感受,從山望下九曲溪盡出眼前、碧水藍天,如詩如畫。

遙望群山裡可看著“半天妖”茗叢的生長之地,從前山向上,後山下風景幽靜悅人,鳥語花香。碧岩處流水無情輕灑在身上,清涼無比。寂靜的山谷裡微風吹着娑婆的竹枝,葉葉相擦響着一片。

趁着天氣陰涼,往山裡走去!古道幽徑,去尋“半天妖”母樹茶。“馬頭岩”的山型因像似昂頭馬首而得名。一片平地綠黃色一片種植“肉桂”墨綠色樹叢為水仙,樹色分明。岩下有道觀,由於路徑差落太大,危險極高。因此放棄這次“半天妖”的探索。

武夷山山珍豐富、慧宛寺裡,因避雨留在寺內喝茶。等雨停,在古老的寺內看著外頭,雨水絲絲點點在地面,濃濃的霧從山內慢慢的蔓延到我的面前。第一次和濃霧相碰,碰出一股的涼意。師傅從寺內出來為尋終覓得一種山珍食材俗稱“雷公草”。好奇心驅使下也尾隨其後,比木耳柔軟小朵肥厚的軟體菌類,用水衝去砂石放入口中嚼咬、淡淡的。這“雷公草”是準備晚上添茶用,是山裡的珍膳。

水簾洞裡沒猴王,由於不是雨季,從天而飛的泉水像白龍似的衝下水潭,沿著水簾洞岩壁走上半山,伸手就能觸着泉水,因岩壁向內凹,因此泉水灑不到裡面,眼前點點泉水落下,如沐浴在雨中。

武夷山區的溪泉澗水,均由西往東流。唯獨“留香澗”流勢卻趨向西北,倒流回山。故舊稱為“倒水坑” 澗水裡小蝦魚眾多,脫鞋赤腳下水捉魚蝦去!

“茶中之王”大紅袍,生長於九龍窼峽谷峭壁上。只見茶王樹高昂,環視群茶。壁邊有一古意涼亭,坐在其中品嚐武夷岩茶自得其樂。

我愛膳食,武夷山山珍特多;紅菇、茶菇、猴頭菇、山鹿石靈湲魚兒。

邊食飲武夷岩茶,邊回想當天的旅程,雨中淒美的山林,微風陣陣,煙霧迷茫,若隱若現,如霧中仙子。

武夷山真美!


*武夷岩茶專題講座:
291113(五)3pm,紫藤茶文化廣場,入場免費!


Danxia landform has been known for being truly stunning and beautiful!

Mount Wuyi boasts of seventy-two intriguing caves, ninety-nine spectacular crags and one hundred and eight scenic spots, making it a fine example of Danxia landform.

The emerald-green Jiuquxi (Nine-Bend Creek) meanders over 20 kilometers in the deep gorge of Mount Wuyi. Flanked by colossal cliffs, the river offers numerous picturesque scenes of rocky outcrops with interesting shapes and tell-tale names such as the Turtle Rock, Twin Peak, Maiden Peak and Great King Peak. The river cruise I took was leisurely and relaxing.

The myths behind these hills and peaks are fascinating; no less captivating is the boat-shaped stone coffin high up the cliff. The inscription on the rocky surface, a priceless piece of cultural heritage, is awe-inspiring. When one admires the natural wonders deep in the mountain at a leisurely pace, time flies. The crisp cool water of the Fairy’s Pool at the foothill is perfect for visitors to freshen up. Walking uphill, there is pleasant sight and scenic beauty at every turn. Jiuquxi is way down, reflecting the vast expanse of the azure sky.

From a distance, I caught a glimpse of the place where the tea plant cultivar Ban Tian Yao is located. Going down, I was mesmerized by the chirping birds and fragrant flowers at the other side of the mountain. Water bounced off the rocky outcrop gives an invigorating splash. In this tranquil haven, stalks of bamboo leaves rubbing against each other in the breeze orchestrate a melody that Nature knows best.

I decided to explore further. Making my way to the Matou Yan (or Horse Head Crag), I strolled along the quiet ancient paths, hoping to visit the Ban Tian Yao cultivar. Instead, I chanced upon a plot of dark-green ‘cinnamon’ Shuixian tea plants. The cliff was rather steep and dangerous, and I decided to abandon the search. At this juncture, I noticed a monastery below the crag.

Mount Wuyi is blessed by rich biodiversity. I took shelter from the rain at the Huiwan Temple and was served tea. The old temple offers a wonderful view of the splattering raindrops and drifting fog. It was the first time I got up close with dense fog which was damp and chilly. Driven by curiosity, I followed a monk who was on his way to search for Leigongchao (Grass of the Thunder God). The soft and fleshy fungi, smaller than black fungi, are a delicacy in the mountain. Light in taste, it is a special treat to go with tea.

Then there is the Shuilian Cave (Water Curtain Cave), though no Monkey King lives here. During rainy season, the full height of the spring water from the top of the cap rock to the bottom resembles a white dragon plunging down the deep pool. I came at a time when there wasn’t much rain. I could actually feel the water when I stretched my hand, as I went up the hill along the rocky wall of the Shuilian Cave. The water flowing down the protruding cap rock hangs like a water curtain, creating the impression that one is bathing in the rain.

All the streams and creeks in Mount Wuyi flow from west to east, with the exception of the Liuxiang Stream (Fragrant Stream), which heads northwest making its way back to the mountain, hence its old name Daoshui Gully (The U-turn Gully). There were a lot of small fish and shrimps; it was such fun catching fish and shrimps barefooted in the deep pool! Da Hong Bao, dubbed the King of Tea, grows defiantly on the steep cliff of the Jiulongzhao Canyon. The ‘King’ stands tall overlooking all the tea trees underneath. Sipping Wuyi crag tea at the classic-styled pavilion by the cliff is a truly enjoyable experience.

For a foodie like me, Mount Wuyi is a treasure trove, with delicacies such as different varieties of wild mushrooms and fresh fish from the creek.

What an amazing journey it was – sipping Wuyi tea and snacking on the delicacy from the mountain, and admiring the poignant scene of mountain trees in the rain shrouded by the dense fog.

Mount Wuyi, truly stunning and beautiful!


山間品茶,意境非凡

Oolong Tea Tea Talk Wuyi Cliff-Grown Tea 乌龙茶 武夷岩茶

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